A package’s delivery system always matters, and this is even more apparent in the skincare category. Brands have been working with suppliers to develop skincare packages that will give consumers the most effective, enjoyable and convenient experience when using a product.

According to the latest research from Diagonal Reports in the study, Global Skincare: Consumer Behavior/Regimes and Market Report 2015, skincare will remain the key beauty category, but consumers’ needs are changing because their behavior is different.

Consumers are looking for solution-oriented products, as well as convenience and efficacy according to Jacqueline Clarke, analyst, Diagonal Reports. Clarke says, “Consumer concern with skin, always high, has now been boosted immeasurably by product innovation.” This includes the increase in “medicalized” skincare products, as well as high-tech devices.

Product trends in skincare have been influencing the demand for certain types of packaging, including the recent popularity of serums and oils, which require dropper bottles. Other products require single-use packaging for skincare regimens. There are also many brands using convenient, travel-friendly wipes for more types of skincare products.  

As for design, skincare products that have brightly colored packages are proving that they can be taken seriously. Plain, clinical white is no longer the only design cue that brands are using to communicate a product’s effectiveness.

 

Dropper Bottles for Serums and Facial Oils

 

According to recent research from Diagonal Reports, oil has long been a key in Asian and African beauty regimes, but we’re starting to see it more widely used, due to several factors. “We’re seeing the increasing use of oils in Western skincare, as part of a wider beauty trend. Oil is accepted because it is perceived as natural. It also represents the ‘spa’ explosion, such as oils used in massage therapies,” explains Clarke.

Since more skincare brands have been marketing serums and facial oils, there are also more dropper bottles being requested. “We’re seeing the resurgence in the use of droppers,” says Curt Altmann, director of marketing, Yonwoo/PKG. “They offer a precise, controlled dosage, for all of the serums that have been launching lately.”  

To better fulfill the demand, Yonwoo/PKG offers newly updated serum bottles. “Since droppers have changed very little since Louis Pasteur used them in the mid 1800s, we felt that the dropper needed to be re-imagined. We invented the auto-loading dropper that was launched with L’Oréal Génefique. We also introduced the airless dropper that auto-loads from an airless system where the dropper doesn’t contaminate the product,” Altmann explains.

Restorsea recently chose Yonwoo/PKG’s dropper bottle for its face oil, 24 kt. Liquid Gold.  

“The supplier showed me its Good to the Last Drop bottle, and I loved its square shape, and the fact that you can get everything out,” says Patti Pao, founder, Restorsea.

“There is an indentation in the base where the dropper can rest. As the product evacuates, the remaining product “gathers” around the indentation which is how the consumer is able to evacuate all of the product, hence the name ‘Good to the Last Drop,’ “ Pao explains.

Restorsea’s golden-hued product glistens in the clear bottle. “The formula is bi-phasic, with the top composed of squalene, and the base is a mixture of water with our proprietary enzyme, Aquabeautine X – plus 24kt gold flakes. The gold is so valuable that our manufacturer, Englewood Labs, keeps it locked up,” says Pao.

Skin Inc. is another brand that’s marketing serums in dropper bottles. The luxury skincare brand markets customizable serums, made in Japan, and just launched in New York last month. The brand’s personalized serum range, My Daily Dose, is uniquely blended according to your skin’s needs and lifestyle requirements.

 

The serums are packaged in clear dropper bottles that showcase the colorful active ingredients. The products are made using a patented seaweed encapsulation process, which keeps the actives fresh and ‘on-call’ inside moisture-rich caviar-like capsules. The active ingredients are released only upon application to the skin. This technology is what enables Skin Inc. serums to be custom-blended for each individual.

Kolmar, a custom manufacturer of cosmetics, skincare and personal care products, says that it has developed what is trending to be the “next generation of serums”—its line of Facial Essences provides an effective delivery of actives, since there are less materials interfering with their ability to penetrate the skin,  according to Ali Poston, Kolmar’s senior manager of product development. “They require packaging, to protect the actives from degradation, and a dispensing system designed for a very fluid product,” says Poston.

 

Airless Dispensing Technologies

 

Skincare products with active ingredients that require airless packages, as well as bottles with metal-free dispensing systems, continue to be in demand, according to Michael Salemi, COO, The Packaging Company.

The supplier offers new designs for springless airless bottles in PP plastic, which don’t contain any metal. “A plastic diaphragm acts as the spring. This makes the bottle 100% recyclable, and perfect for sensitive skincare and medical products,” says Salemi.
The Packaging Company is also developing a round dual chamber bottle with a high-end look. “This will be the only round dual chamber airless bottle on the market,” Salemi says. “Most of the dual chamber airless bottles on the market are oval and very limited in style,” he explains.

Robert Brands, president & CEO, VariBlend, also says that airless is in demand. “The demand for airless packaging is being driven by the development of advanced formulations, which include actives and other new ingredients. These are high-viscosity products that require advanced dispensing, which will offer superior protection of the bulk.”

 

VariBlend offers airless alternatives, which Brands says “takes new-breed dispensing further, with custom-blending, dual dispensing capabilities.”

VariBlend ‘s dual dispensing technology allows users to custom-blend products just before using. The dispenser is available in both airless and non-airless versions. The multi-position design of the dispenser helps consumers design a personalized regimen, by simply turning the dispenser head to gradually dial in a different formula proportion.

“Consumers love our custom-blending feature because it is accurate, easy to use and reliable. Our customers appreciate the product differentiation and value-added factors,” says Brands.

Richard Esterbrook, sales manager, The Penthouse Group, also says the need for airless packaging has recently grown. “There’s an increased need for packaging that fully protects vitamin-enriched, preservative-free, and other sensitive formulas. Yoshino, which The Penthouse Group represents in the U.S., has developed several new airless packaging options for skincare.

One example is Yoshino’s new series of stock “shut-off” airless pumps, available in dosages from 0.2g to 1g. “It features a pintel nozzle in the orifice that retracts during dispensing and automatically pops back into place after dispensing, thereby preventing hardening of formula at the orifice and flowback of air into the bottle,” says Esterbrook.

Airopack has an eco-friendly patented dispensing technology, which is a fully transparent, all-plastic pressurized dispenser. Instead of requiring a propellant, the package uses compressed air to dispense the formulation at a constant pressure level, which is eco-friendly.

“We are seeing more complex formulations being developed, which are putting a higher demand on packaging performance–specifically in terms of compatibility/formulation interaction. We also see that there is an increasing trend for more consumer interaction with the package, such as transparency to identify when the pack is empty, which automatically triggers re-purchase decisions,” explains Erwin Boes, commercial technology director, Airopack.

Joycos recently developed a single walled airless pump chamber bottle, in different sizes, in response to customer demands and market trends. The translucent bottle allows the product to show, and its pump dispenser can be adapted to accommodate products with different viscosities. “This makes it possible for a brand to package different products, such as facial creams, lotions, and toners, as a matching set, in the same bottle,” explains Bryan Kim, sales manager, Joycos.  

Lesley Gadomski, vice president of sales, Fusion Packaging, says she is seeing a constant evolution in formulations—and these new products require the protection of an airless package.  

“As consumers demand products with more sophisticated and intensive ingredients, packaging has to evolve to be able to withstand and protect these products. This requires us to work with brands earlier in the product development process,” explains Gadomski.

Alexander Kwapis, creative director, Fusion, adds, “In addition to advanced ingredients, we are also seeing thicker formulations that need a piston-driven package to ensure the consumer gets more product evacuation.”  

Masks, Wipes, & Unit Dose Packaging
 

More skincare products are being packaged in ways that make them more convenient to use. Pads and wipes are one example of the trend.  “Lifestyles have been transformed, time availability has shrunk, yet expectations are higher than ever. The beauty buyer adapts by choosing convenience and efficacy,” says Diagonal Reports’ Clarke.

The NPD Group reports that sales of prestige facial skincare masks grew in the U.S., UK, Italy, and Spain during the 12 months ending June 2014. This growth helped to drive 2% value increases for overall facial skincare sales in both the U.S. and UK, and offset the segment declines in Italy and Spain.

“Masks attract today’s consumers with the promise of immediate results in treating a variety of skin flaws,” says Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, NPD Group, and member of Beauty Packaging’s advisory board. “New formats, and formulations that address individual needs appeal to the consumer looking to try something different without spending a fortune.”

The segment is still relatively small in size, but masks have had a significant impact on the overall sales of the prestige facial skincare category for the past 12 months, particularly in the U.S. Facial masks significantly outperformed much larger segments, like facial moisturizers.

Juice Beauty recently developed a mask made from an innovative material—seaweed. The product, Stem Cellular Instant Eye Life, contains six disposable one-time use eye masks, plus six vials filled with product. The user opens a vial, saturates a mask, and leaves it on the face for 10 minutes—for an instant lifting effect.

Applicator Tips

 

Different types of applicator tips continue to be popular, especially for skincare products, since they help the user to apply a product more accurately and effectively.

Fusion Packaging offers a variety of applicator tip designs—and with many different options. The supplier recently expanded its product offering with its Direct Effect collection, which is a new line of tube-based direct applicators. There are 15 customizable styles, in three different lines: Rollerball, Soft Slope and Pro-Tip.

“Direct applicators continue to be a popular packaging option,” says Fusion’s Kwapis. “Brands are turning to these types of packages that apply directly to the skin to avoid contaminating sensitive formulas. Many applicators also provide additional benefits, such as cooling and massaging effects to help products absorb more effectively,” he explains.

The Packaging Company also offers a full line of applicator tip tubes including foam, rubber, brush, ceramic and metal roll-on tubes, which are ideal for firming and anti-wrinkle products. “These tips allow products to be blended smoothly into the skin, while also providing a massage sensation and cooling effect. We also have the micro vibrate massage tubes which have a vibrating mechanism on the tip, which can be made of ceramic or metal, and adds value to the product,” explains Salemi.  

Yonwoo/PKG’s Altmann says that they have been developing new types of applicator tips as well. “Targeted application is a very heavy product segmentation driver in skincare. It is what we have been getting the most requests for lately,” he says.

Yonwoo/PKG’s new types of applicator tips include metal and silicone, as well as tips that combine both materials, which feel both soft and cooling against the skin. These tips are designed for both airless bottles and tubes.

Aptar recently worked with Helena Rubenstein to launch Re-Plasty Pro Filler, in the supplier’s airless dispensing package, Serumony. The dispensing pen has a surgical feel, with its pointy dispensing tip, and offers controlled dosage.

“We are seeing a demand for innovative airless systems as formulas are becoming more advanced. Premium formulas, like Helena Rubenstein Re-Plasty Pro Filler, require the ultra-protective system of airless as well as the ability to deliver innovative dosing,” explains Julianna Keklik, marketing manger, Aptar.

The product has been developed to replace hyaluronic acid injections, or prolong the effects, according to Keklik. “The innovative design of Serumony evokes surgical precision and a certain splendor that won over the Helena Rubenstein team,” she adds.

Three different decorating techniques were used to achieve the package’s gold luxe look—galvanizing, anodizing and hot stamping with contouring.

Skincare Brands Move Away from White

 

Most skincare brands often choose white for packaging, to convey a clinical look, and to send the message to consumers that the products are effective and should be taken seriously. This is especially true for “doctor” brands. This is changing, however, with more skincare brands introducing color.

In addition, “doctor” brands no longer have the cache they used to, according to Diagonal Research. “The concept of a ‘doctor’ brand has become very diffuse, and no longer has the drawing power it had when the first generation of doctor-developed brands was launched, says Diagonal Reports’ Clarke. 

 

The Packaging Company’s Salemi says that white is still most often chosen by skincare brands. “White matte finishes are still prevalent, but with silver and gold accents. These looks are being achieved using hot stamp foils or UV spray coatings, which are also high in demand. During the past year, we have done several matte white and white with aluminum accents, in both satin and gloss,” he says.

However, Salemi is also seeing a rise in color. “Other PMS colors have been growing in use for skincare. As the market gets crowded, product managers want to compete for the consumer’s eye,” he explains.

Yonwoo/PKG’s Altmann says customers are asking for more sophisticated decorating options. “Skincare packaging has definitely moved from the standard white. We are getting more requests for more textures in addition to color, with matte textures in sprays in combination with shiny golds and silvers. There are also more requests for raised textured lettering as we did for the Dove DermaSeries,” he says.

Aptar’s Keklik also says that metallics are being requested often. “You’ll see some brands that still have the white aesthetic, but with added brushed aluminum hot stamping, to give the package a touch of luxury,” she says.  

“Premiumization” is a major trend, according to Keklik. “Our customers want to convey a premium position while sticking with brand identity. They can achieve this with different types of decoration like metallization, silk screening, hot-stamping, and lacquering—combining decoration with high-end materials for a luxury look.”

Dr. Hauschka Skin Care uses mainly white packaging, accented with another color, such as the white tube chosen for its Rose Day Cream. It has an orange-gold band near the bottom.

 

Kaplan MD chose dark blue for many of its bottles and jars. “We chose a strong navy blue color to convey the fact that Kaplan MD is a serious, unisex anti-aging line that is dermatologist formulated,” explains Megan Vasquez, communications manager. “It also has the sophistication and elegance of luxurious prestige skincare,” she adds.  

Most of Kaplan MD’s packaging is glass, and it’s not airless. “We chose glass packaging as soon as plastic bottles with BPA were banned in the EU in 2011. We pride ourselves on being at the forefront of skincare innovation. As such, we were the first line to claim BPA-free cosmetic packaging,” explains Vasquez.

Soveral uses plain jars that are mainly clear and white for its products, including Angel Balm, which is shown. But the brand’s outer cartons feature a pop of color. A pink butterfly pattern is printed on the inside flaps of every box.

Christiana Repcheck Mitchell, senior graphic designer at Sheridan & Co, worked with the team at Soveral to create the look.

“Drawing on Soveral’s use of responsibly sourced essential oils, we used the butterfly motif to convey a sense of elegance and transparency, as well as hinting at the idea of skin renewal and regeneration. The brand was keen for the packaging to reflect its trusted reputation, as well as setting a positive first impression. The result is packaging with clear typography and a soothing color scheme that encapsulates the simplicity of the products,” Mitchell explains.

Designed to Showcase Ingredients

 

The ingredients in a product not only determine the best dispensing system, but also affect a product’s design. MuLondon is a UK-based organic skincare brand that uses glass jars for many of its facial moisturizers, and highlights its natural and organic ingredients on its labels.

“We looked at and tested a number of jars and lids, and chose to go with clear glass jars with silver aluminum lids. As the brand started out very small, we opted for stock items that still provided the look and feel that we wanted—clean, clear, natural and bright. The packaging reflects the values of the brand, and the purity of the ingredients used,” explains the brand’s founder, Boris, who goes by his first name only.

 

MuLondon also displays its many certification symbols on its labels, such as Vegan and Cruelty-Free.  Consumers are becoming more aware of these certifications, and seek out skincare brands that use them on packaging, according to Diagonal Reports’ Clarke.

“Natural and organic consumers are more suspicious that some claims have no justification, and increasingly require evidence of compliance, with respect to certifying bodies,” Clarke explains.

Seaflora is a brand based on the use of seaweed in its product formulations, and conveys a natural look through its unique outer packaging, which is a brown tube, as well as a natural image on its labels.

 

What Can We Expect to See Next?

 

The Packaging Company’s Salemi says that the trend toward organic skincare products and sensitive formulations will continue to drive the need for airless bottles, jars and tubes.

VariBlend’s Brands says that the demand for convenience and portable packages is likely to grow and in response, they are in the final stages of developing a mini version of their dual dispenser. “Our 20mm advanced dual mini will soon be available, in anticipation of the further acceleration of the nomadism mega trend. On-the-go consumers rely on their favorite personal care products wherever they go—at work, at the club, while traveling and more.”

Fusion’s Kwapis says that more of the up-and-coming brands are turning away from jars, in favor of bottles and tubes—which are also more “nomadic.”  He says, “Airless tubes, in particular, are becoming a more appealing option because they offer the great benefits of airless dispensing in a tube format.”

The market research firm Canadean says we can expect to see more of a demand for personalized products—and values the global market for personalized skincare to be worth $12.2 billion.

 

According to Veronika Zhupanova, analyst at Canadean: “Over 22% of skincare consumption by volume globally is driven by individualism, and with the development of new technologies, manufacturers have opportunities to take it to a whole new level.”

Zhupanova offers a few ideas to inspire product development teams, saying, “Factors such as allergies,
genetic predisposal, nutrition, climate and exposure to the sun are all individual needs perfect for tailoring.”

Whatever the next product trend is on the horizon, the demand for skincare products isn’t showing any signs of slowing.